Nose: Sweet citrus, sugar flowers and royal icing, with a touch of Eccles-cake fruit – a slice of wedding cake and a slice of lemon drizzle on the same plate. Stewed apples and underripe mandarins add a sweet-and-sour note, with sweet and pleasantly dusty sugared almonds alongside. Water mulches down the fruit, with squidgy apple skins and warm oranges emerging.

Palate: Darker than expected, with spiced sponge and sultanas on top of a wave of spice and concentrated fruitiness – apple squash and tropical fruit juice. Water wipes out the heat from the spice, revealing toffee apples and sugar-dusted Nice biscuits.

Finish: More sugared almonds, a touch of aniseed-ball heat and juicy orange rolling down the sides of the tongue.